Reruns on the runway
Doesn’t anyone believe in the future anymore?
Apparently not replica louis vuitton , since the Spring 2004 fashion collections, wrapping up this week in New York and moving on to Europe next month, were once again awash in nostalgic designs and accessories: Marc Jacobs gave us gold lam trench coats and pale gauzy dresses inspired by the Cockettes’ ’70s era thrift store lovin’ acid queens; Diane von Furstenberg channeled Gatsby with her flapper dresses and head scarves; Jennifer Nicholson (daughter of Jack) peppered her collection with ’60s era pastel baby doll dresses; and Narciso Rodriguez showcased ’50s style slim skirts and trapeze jackets. This 1:1 replica handbags year’s fashions are played out like an oldies station: nothing but a parade of greatest hits from the ’20s through the ’80s. The “new” mod creations of Marc Jacobs, Tommy Hilfiger, Fake Louis Vuitton Replica Bags Kenneth Cole and Michael Kors leave me cold. If I really wanted to wear an op art A line jumper, I could save a load of cash and just raid my mother’s closet. And while fashion magazines shout “Glamour Is Back!” you won’t catch me buying these restrictive pencil skirts or tailored suits there’s nothing glamorous about a skirt that requires a girdle.
Only a few designers seem to be forward thinking. Last year Vogue profiled Anke Loh, who makes tops and dresses that are light or heat sensitive so that handprints appear when you touch her garments. Brazilian Alexandre Herchcovitch covers his designs with plastic reflective sequins to create a shimmering effect. And avant garde designer Junya Watanabe has developed simple and sporty glow in the dark shorts, pantsuits and white shirts by treating fabric with a paste made of crushed luminescent stones.
So why don’t high quality replica handbags china we see these contemporary designs on the runways? Because the cheap louis vuitton bags from china uk business and marketing arms of fashion companies don’t believe consumers are ready for change and argue that innovations like luminescent fabric are too expensive to produce. But if people are willing to shell out $15,400 for a Michael Kors slate black distressed mink studded coat that looks like an ’80s biker jacket, there must be someone, somewhere, who would purchase clothes like Ms. Recently in the New York Times, Guy Trebay asked why fashion is no longer cool. The answer? The fun has been squeezed out of the business by bottom line focused corporations who want to “manage” imagination. Nothing is left to chance or intuition about what the public will or will not purchase each season. These gurus document coming changes in public tastes and purchasing preferences up to 18 months before each buying season and translate this information into concrete suggestions for a garment’s silhouette design, fabric and colors.
No wonder everything is predictable and boring. We live in a world choked with prepackaged nostalgia because at present, trend spotter surveys, field reports and peer review panels are all telling designers and manufacturers that people would rather look to the past than the future.
“Retro chic” the term coined by Raphael Samuel in his 1996 book “Theatres of Memory” is not just showing up at Fashion Week and at the malls. It’s everywhere. flock to burlesque shows featuring the striptease stylings of performers like Dirty Martini or saucy dance acts such as the Potani Sisters. And one of the most popular movies this summer, “Pirates of the Caribbean: Secret of the Black Pearl,” shamelessly traded on its nostalgic appeal by larding the picture with tableaux familiar fake designer bags to all Disneyland visitors who encountered the “Pirates of the Caribbean” ride as children. Finally, if the old TV show wasn’t bad enough, “Starsky and Hutch: The Movie” arrives next spring.
Even the most “futuristic” movie of the year, “Matrix Reloaded,” adopted vintage styles: Neo’s Tibetan monk’s coat is lined with vintage fabric; Agent Smith’s suit is inspired by JFK’s; and the ghostly twin assassins wear outfits suitable for fundamentalist ministers. I sure hope Monica Bellucci gets a costume change in “The Matrix Revolutions,” because her current ensemble, a rubber dress with a peplum, is hideous. In his 1979 book “Yearning for Yesterday: A Sociology of Nostalgia,” Davis observed that people in the postindustrial era cheap louis vuitton bags from china “look backward rather high quality designer replica handbags wholesale than forward, for the familiar rather than the novel” to calm anxieties about the present and the future. Of course, there is a lot to escape from these days. But how is a ladylike tweed suit going to take my mind off the terrorist alerts? “Retro chic” is scary too. Relentlessly cheery images for example, the recent ads for Louis Vuitton that showcase a pinup girl modeling a tweed suit the color of lemon sorbet replica designer handbags , and for Kate Spade, whose headless partygoers knock about in ’50s style footwear make me feel haunted by the past, as if I were an extra in a David Lynch movie, drenched with sunny dread.
It doesn’t help that fashion advertising appropriates details from film noir to set the mood: Sure, heroines from Hitchcock thrillers inspired Carolina Herrera’s fall collection, which was composed of full skirted party frocks like the ones Grace Kelly modeled in “Rear Window” and “To Catch a Thief,” but what’s Valentino’s excuse for that blowsy blonde transvestite in a ’30s inspired bias cut silk gown doing her outdated best to project decadence and decay?
“Retro chic” is more than just a disappointment on the runway. It’s also an unhealthy form of escapism that not only reflects the cultural mood but may also influence its direction. By replica louis vuitton bags from china focusing so much on the past, the fashion and advertising industries and by extension mass culture are suppressing innovation and new forms of self expression. Why bother making anything new if high quality replica handbags china the American public is so willing to go for recycled designs?When fashion designers revive mod styles by copying ’60s innovators like Andr Courr and Pierre Cardin, they are essentially introducing a new “vision” without taking any risks. The early 1960s was the last time fashion tried to dress for the future with optimism and flair. Now that we’ve finally made it to the 21st century, the most “futuristic” looks are pieces from the past. Fashion’s embrace of mod designs is another form of “retro futurism” an aesthetic appreciation for “space age” materials and design.
But when will the future stop looking like a set from “Bladerunner,” a movie that is itself more than 20 years old?
The problem is not the past the problem is the idealization of a past that never occurred, and an old vision of a future that has never come about. I am a huge fan of vintage stores, but “retro chic” not only hurts innovation but also dilutes the true value of vintage. I’ve yet to find a book that clearly articulates, in a meaningful way, the politics of collecting secondhand clothes, but surely any person who has ever shopped at a thrift store has noticed at least two benefits: One dolabuy.su , purchasing pre worn items is an excellent form of recycling. By encouraging people to donate or sell their cast offs, clothing collectors keep tons of textiles out of the garbage heap. Thrift store denizens not only find new fashions on a budget but also create a market replica louis vuitton handbags incentive that diminishes our landfills. And two, collecting old clothing generates an appreciation for the past and puts history in context. While trawling the thrift store racks as a teen, I noticed how large our bodies had become in comparison with the average sizes of the old dresses heaped in corners. My friends and I developed respect for well made items, marveling at hand sewn buttonholes and real horn buttons.
I long for the day when I can wear truly modern street wear. Just think of the outfits that could emerge in the age of bio engineering. I can see some wild girl, with living tentacles mixed in her hair, wearing an enviro acoustic dress that emits strange beeps and will shriek if you stand too close. Or how about a garment impregnated with mood altering scents or pheromones? Personally, I’d rush to buy an outfit treated with some really useful aromatherapy, say, a fragrance to instantly eliminate the Designer Louis Vuitton Replica Handbags fear that you look fat. That is, as long as it doesn’t have a peplum.